If you’ve spent any time in the world of horology, you’ll know we’re living in the golden age of the reissue. Every other week, it seems, a heritage department unearths a forgotten blueprint, and a brand announces the triumphant return of a classic. For every heartfelt success, however, there are a dozen misses—watches that feel like cynical marketing exercises, lacking the soul of their forebears.
Then, there is the Longines BigEye.
Launched in 2017, the BigEye didn’t just join the reissue party; it crashed it with a confident swagger, reminding us what a truly great heritage-inspired timepiece can and should be. It wasn’t just a good reissue; it was a masterclass in how to honour the past while building a watch for the present. In short, it absolutely nailed the brief.
So, what is the brief for a perfect reissue? Let’s break it down.
The Historical Hook: A Nod, Not a Replica
A great reissue needs a compelling story, and Longines has archives deeper than most. The original “big eye” was not a single, famous reference but a style of pilot’s chronograph from the 1930s and 1960s where one of the sub-dials was significantly larger than the others to enhance legibility. Longines didn’t slavishly recreate one specific model. Instead, they took the most compelling design cue—that asymmetrical, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock—and built a modern watch around it.
This is a crucial first lesson: the best reissues are often evolutions, not replicas. They capture the spirit and the most iconic design language without being shackled by every historical constraint. The BigEye feels instantly familiar, authentically vintage, yet it stands as its own distinct creation.
The Design DNA: God is in the Details
Let’s get into the specifics of why this watch is so visually arresting.
- The Asymmetrical Layout: This is the star of the show. The oversized 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock gives the watch an off-kilter, almost industrial personality. It’s quirky, purposeful, and immediately sets it apart from the sea of symmetrical, Valjoux 7750-based chronographs. Flanking it are the smaller running seconds at 9 o’clock and the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock. This “big eye, two small eyes” configuration is unique, memorable, and deeply rooted in its tool-watch heritage.
- The Dial and Legibility: The matte black dial is a perfect canvas. It’s non-reflective, functional, and provides stark contrast for the polished, applied Arabic numerals and the leaf-shaped hands. All these elements are generously coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring the watch is a veritable torch in the dark. This is a watch that prioritizes function, just like its ancestors, but executes it with modern material superiority.
- The Case and Wearability: With a 41mm stainless steel case, the BigEye hits the modern sweet spot. It’s substantial enough to have presence but wears comfortably due to its relatively slim profile (for an automatic chronograph) and manageable lug-to-lug distance. The bead-blasted finish on the top of the lugs is a subtle touch that reduces glare and adds a layer of tactile, tool-watch authenticity. The fine-brushed case sides and the classic pump-style pushers complete a look that is both rugged and refined.
- The Typography: This is where Longines displayed a fanatical attention to detail. The font used for the numerals, the “Longines” script, and the track around the periphery is lifted straight from the vintage playbook. It’s elegant, slightly art-deco, and perfectly proportioned. The red accent on the central seconds hand is a tiny, almost imperceptible splash of colour that brings the entire dial to life.
The Beating Heart: A Movement Worthy of the Name
A beautiful reissue can be let down by a mediocre movement. The BigEye suffers from no such problem. Beating inside is the Longines Calibre L688.2. For the enthusiasts in the room, you’ll recognize this as a member of the ETA A08.L01 family, which itself is a development of the legendary 7750.
But this is no off-the-shelf workhorse. The key upgrade here is the incorporation of a column wheel and a vertical clutch.
Let’s demystify that for the learners:
- Column Wheel: This is a classic, high-end mechanism for controlling a chronograph’s functions (start, stop, reset). It’s often considered more desirable than a cam-actuated system because it offers a smoother, more precise tactile feel when you press the pushers. It’s a mark of a more refined chronograph.
- Vertical Clutch: This is a technical innovation that prevents the chronograph seconds hand from stuttering or jumping when engaged. It also means the hand always starts dead-on zero, with no initial “jerk.” Furthermore, it allows the chronograph to run continuously without adding significant wear to the movement or affecting timekeeping accuracy.
The presence of both these features in the BigEye is a massive win. It elevates the watch from being a mere “pretty face” to a serious, technically competent instrument. It has a 54-hour power reserve and is a certified chronometer, meaning it has undergone independent testing for accuracy. Longines gave this heritage piece a modern, high-performance engine, proving they were serious about substance, not just style.
On the Wrist: The Intangible “It” Factor
Specifications and history lessons are one thing, but how does it feel? In a word: fantastic. The BigEye has a tool-watch honesty to it. It’s not trying to be a dress chronograph. It’s unapologetically a pilot’s instrument, and that character shines through. The legibility is second to none, the operation of the chronograph is satisfyingly crisp, and its unique aesthetic guarantees it will be a conversation starter.
It pairs just as well with a leather jacket and jeans as it does with a casual weekend outfit. It’s a watch that encourages you to use its functions, to live with it, and to appreciate its quirks.
Conclusion: The Blueprint for Success
The Longines BigEye is more than just a successful watch; it’s a case study. It demonstrates that a brand can dive into its rich history, pull out a compelling concept, and execute it with modern craftsmanship and technical prowess without losing the soul of the original idea.
It respected the brief by:
- Honouring a key historical design cue without being a slave to it.
- Executing the design with flawless attention to detail and legibility.
- Powering it with a movement that surpasses expectations for its category.
- Delivering a wearing experience that is both comfortable and full of character.
In a crowded market, the Longines BigEye stands tall. It’s a reissue with a quirky face, a brilliant brain, and a huge heart. It didn’t just meet the brief; it defined it. And for that, it deserves a permanent spot in the modern chronograph hall of fame.