The watch calendar is packed with major events, but there’s something uniquely exciting about Geneva Watch Days (GWD). Its decentralized, boutique-hotel-based format creates an intimate and focused atmosphere, allowing brands to make a significant impact without the overwhelming noise of a massive trade show.
While 2025 might seem like a distant horizon, for watch enthusiasts and collectors, the speculation and anticipation are already beginning. Based on the trends of 2024 and the trajectories of the participating brands, here’s what I’m most looking forward to seeing at next year’s edition.
1. Bulgari: Chasing the Impossible (Again)
No brand has owned the headline game at GWD quite like Bulgari. Their relentless pursuit of ultra-thin records has become a spectacle in itself. After the mind-bending Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC and the stunning, gem-set interpretations we saw this year, the question is: What’s left to conquer?
I’m anticipating two paths for 2025:
- The Next Record: Perhaps a new material for the Finissimo case, or a complication never before made so thin. A ultra-thin perpetual calendar? A minute repeater? With Bulgari, you can never rule anything out.
- Color and Craft: I’d love to see them apply their masterful gem-setting and enamel artistry to the Finissimo line in even more daring ways, transforming these technical marvels into true wearable art.
2. Breitling: Diving Deeper into the Premier Universe
Breitling had a standout 2024, powerfully re-establishing the Premier line as a cornerstone of their collection. The new chronographs and day-date models were hits. For 2025, I expect them to build on this momentum.
My hopes for Breitling at GWD:
- New Premier Complications: A Premier-grade moonphase or a calendar complication feels like a natural and elegant next step.
- The Superocean Heritage Evolution: The vintage-inspired Superocean Heritage is a fan favorite. Could we see a new movement, new materials (like a lightweight titanium version), or a new size variation to keep this dive watch classic fresh and competitive?
3. Girard-Perregaux: The Neo-Classics Push
Under the new leadership of Patrick Pruniaux, Girard-Perregaux is on a mission to reassert its position as a top-tier manufacture with deep historical roots. The focus has been sharpening its iconic collections like the Laureato and Neo Bridges.
For GWD 2025, I’m looking for:
- Laureato Innovation: We’ve seen time-only, chronographs, and stunning high-jewellery Laureatos. I’m eager for a new complication within the Laureato case—perhaps a complete calendar or even a tourbillon—that blends sporty elegance with technical prowess.
- A New Take on a Classic: GP’s history is rich with forgotten gems. I’m hoping they continue their “neo” approach and reimagine another historical model with a contemporary twist, much like they did with the Casquette.
4. Ulysse Nardin: Freak-ing Out with New Materials
Ulysse Nardin has always been the mad scientist of haute horlogerie, and the Freak collection is its flagship experiment. Their innovation with silicium and other advanced materials is unparalleled.
My anticipation for them lies in:
- Material Science Breakthrough: Following the Freak [ONE] and its use of silicium, carbon, and diamond, what new futuristic material will they pioneer next? A Freak in a entirely new composite or an organic material would be truly groundbreaking.
- The Diver’s Evolution: The Blast and Diver lines have integrated their avant-garde design language beautifully. I’m looking forward to seeing new colorways or case material combinations that make these statement pieces even more wearable and desirable.
5. The Independent Spirit: De Bethune, Maurice Lacroix, and Others
The beauty of GWD is its accessibility for smaller, dynamic brands.
- De Bethune: I always expect the unexpected from them. Their organic case designs and celestial mechanics are in a league of their own. A new interpretation of their moonphase or a new sports watch would be a huge draw.
- Maurice Lacroix: They’ve been on a hot streak with the Aikon and especially the Masterpiece collections. I hope to see them push the envelope further with an innovative new complication or a stunning new dial technique within their accessible luxury segment.
The Overall Vibe: Intimacy and Discovery
Beyond any single release, what I look forward to most about Geneva Watch Days is the experience. The ability to walk from a hotel suite showcasing a six-figure independent masterpiece to a brand presentation in a stylish lounge encapsulates the modern, accessible spirit of watch collecting today. It’s less of a corporate show and more of a city-wide festival for horology lovers.
What are you hoping to see from Geneva Watch Days 2025? Which brands on the roster have your attention? Let us know in the comments below!
